Warakuya

At Akabane’s Wagaya (笑楽家, pronounced Wagaya), the curry rice is a draw for many diners: it simmers until the savoury flavours of the meat and vegetables meld into the sauce. The thick sauce has a gently sweet, rounded richness and a pleasantly nostalgic quality. Its tender pieces of vegetables give it body, and it is the sort of curry that makes you want another mouthful of rice. At lunchtime, diners can add toppings such as boiled or raw egg, karaage (Japanese fried chicken) or cheese to make the curry their own.

In the evening, the menu expands to fried dishes and small plates well suited to a drink. There is crisp-coated ham katsu, fried mackerel served with spring onion and crab-cream croquettes, along with bites such as gakko and cream cheese to start with a first drink. Drinks include local sake from Akita, Sapporo Lager, a Kakuhai whisky highball and Hoppy sets.

With counter seating at its heart, the interior offers a relaxed setting for a casual solo meal or an easygoing drink and a few plates. Curry rice and curry gratin are also available in the evening, making Wagaya an option both for a filling meal and for a final dish after drinks.